Instructions as listed in the "Assembly and Operating Instructions Manual"
Brake Adjustment
To adjust brake, loosen nut back of turnbuckle and turn turnbuckle (clockwise when standing in front of tractor) one turn at a time until foot pedal has about 4 inches of travel from clutch engaged to full brake position, or center of idler is about 4-3/8" above frame as shown.
Park Brake Lock
The flanged nut is adjustable forward or backward on rear brake rod so that lock assembly will hold brake full on when parking lock is pulled up (lock position). Tighten jam nut against flanged nut to lock flange nut in position. As brake band wears, flanged nu will have to be readjusted.
The diagram and instructions listed are from the "Assembly & Operating Instructions Manual" for a 1968 SS12 Model number 917.25311. This adjustment procedure is typical for this type of brake system.
Note: These instructions are only one example. You should always refer to the Instruction manual for your tractor for the proper adjustment procedure.
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Instructions as listed in the "Assembly and Operating Instructions Manual"
Clutch Adjustment
Loosen bolt in Flat idler and frame, and push idler and bolt down in slot of frame until center of idler pulley on idler bracket (just back of engine) is 6 1/2 inches above frame as shown. Tighten bolt in flat idler and frame securely.
Note: Foot pedal should be in vertical or just back of vertical position with clutch engages. New belts will stretch after a few hours of operation, then after initial stretch, adjust is selom necessary, so adjust belt after first 10 hours of operation.
The diagram and instructions listed, are from the "Assembly & Operating Instructions Manual" for a 1968 SS12 Model number 917.25311. This adjustment procedure is typical for this type of brake system.
Note: These instructions are only one example. You should always refer to the Instruction manual for your tractor for the proper adjustment procedure.
Clutch / Brake Parking Brake adjustment (submitted by user)
There are two different types of braking system used. Determine if your tractor has a brake band, or the disk brake system.
For Band type system:
Check to see if the brake lining still there or is it still good.
Brake adjustment
1. Push the brake pedal as far down as it will go. Tie it there with a rope to the front axle so it holds it down while making the adjustments.
2. With the tractor in neutral, try pushing the tractor. if it moves then the brake needs adjusting.
3. Under the tractor, in the middle of the brake rod, there should be what looks like a turnbuckle adjustment. it has both a right and left hand treaded rod. There should be a locking nut on one side or the other, Loosen the lock nut.
4. Turn the turnbuckle so it makes the brake rod shorter. This will put more tension on the brake band. Turn it one turn at a time.
5. Check to see if you can move the tractor. If you can't then the adjustment was enough. If not, repeat until you can't move the tractor. Tighten the lock nut back up when you are satisfied with the adjustment.
Parking brake adjustment
1. Push the brake pedal as far down as it will and set the parking brake lever.
2. With the tractor in neutral, try pushing the tractor. If the tractor moves, then the brake needs adjusting.
3. Under the tractor, right by where the parking brake handle is located there should be 2 nuts that are locked together. Loosen them. With the brake lever in the park position, tighten the nuts against the brake mechanism so that they put added pull on the brake band.
4. Once again try pushing the tractor. If it moves, those nuts need to be adjusted again. If not then lock the 2 nuts together.
Clutch adjustment
1. Push the brake pedal as far down as it will go, then tie it there with a rope to the front axle so it holds it down while making the adjustments.
2. With the tractor in NEUTRAL start the engine and see if the drive belt is staying still or moving with the drive pulley on the engine. It should be staying still at this point.
3. If the belt is staying still then there is no need for adjustment, unless the belt is slipping while you are in gear and driving.
4. If the belt is moving with the drive pulley, then adjustments need to be made.
5. There are a couple of adjustments that can be done. On the drive side of the tractor (side with the drive pulley on engine), right below the dash, there should be a slot. it has and idler pulley on the inside of the tractor. With the brake/clutch pedal tied down at this point, you must adjust that idler pulley so it makes the belt looser. Re-tighten the idler after you have adjusted. With the tractor in NUETRAL, restart the engine. See if the belt still moves while the engine is running. If not, no further adjustment should be necessary. If it still still running repeat instructions in this step. One of the most important parts of the clutch system that is commonly over looked, is the belt guides on the drive pulley on the engine. They have to be set so when the brake/clutch pedal is all the way down, the the belt pushes against the guide on top of the drive pulley. This guide has to be set so that the guide pushes the drive belt out of the bottom of the drive pulley.
6. It's important to note that the engine is pulling the belt from the bottom of the pulley. The belt is running off from the top of the pulley to the clutch pulley, which in turn puts pull on the belt to tighten it up to drive the transmission.
Author: unknown
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Instructions as listed in the "Tecumseh Technicians Handbook" part# 691462A
The manual used for the below info came from Tecumseh's repair manual. You can order a copy of this manual directly from Tecumseh. CLICK HERE to be directed to Tecumseh's website.
Covers HH80 to HH120 horizontal shaft engines
WALBRO CARBURETORS: Following are initial carburetor adjustments to be used to start the engine. After the engine has reached operating temperature, make final adjustments.
For proper carburetion the atmospheric vent MUST be open. Examine and clean if necessary. A sluggish engine speed control may at times be caused by dirt or paint on the throttle return spring. Clean if required.
Choke lever positioning is maintained by the stop spring, replace if damaged.
The fuel inlet fitting should be checked if leakage is detected in the carburetor area. Do not screw in too tight, this may crack the carburetor body. The fuel bowl drain should also be examined in event fuel leakage is detected. It may be necessary at times to replace the internal rubber seat. Examine the throttle return spring if slow engine response is noted during operation. Correct by cleaning the throttle return or realigning the throttle plate.
Install the throttle plate with the numbers (if present) facing out when closed. Move the throttle shaft to the closed position, place the throttle plate on the shaft and secure with the retaining screws. The throttle should move freely. If binding is present, correct by loosening screws and repositioning throttle plate.
Examine the inlet needle. “A” is a needle that is serviceable, if the tip appears damaged as “B”, replace needle and seat assembly. Tighten the inlet seat to 40 to 50 inch pounds (4.5 - 5.7 Nm). Always use a new gasket. Clean all dirt from the inlet seat cavity.
Normally the main nozzle should not be removed. It is possible to clean the carburetor with solvent and compressed air. Remove and replace the main nozzle only if the high speed needle seat is damaged or because of excessive dirt.
Do not remove the main nozzle. If it is necessary to remove the main nozzle to aid in cleaning, discard the main nozzle and use a service replacement nozzle with an under cut in the thread area. If the nozzle removed is under cut it can be reused. This procedure must be followed to assure delivery of fuel to the idle system.
Float settings are measured opposite the float hinge. Remove float by pulling out float axle. Bend adjusting tab to correct setting. Always remove the float to make adjustments.
Examine the float hinge and axle for wear. If evident replace the parts.
This shows early and new needle valve, seat, gasket, and spring assembly for large horsepower engine carburetors.
Early carburetors have a metal-to-metal needle and seat contact. The float setting for this model will be .110'’ - .130'’ (2.794 - 3.362 mm).
New carburetors contain a viton seal in the seat and a spring on the needle.For engines with the new carburetor and having a fuel pump, the float setting is .140 (3.556 mm).
For engines with the new carburetor, without a fuel pump, the float setting is .075 (1.905 mm).
The float setting on carburetors used on vertical 8 and 10 H.P. engines is .070'’ to .110'’ (1.778 - 2.794 mm). No variance for carburetor having a fuel pump.
The gasket must fit over the float spring as shown to avoid cutting by the spring when assembled.
When assembling the float to the carburetor body, position the needle spring on the adjusting tag so that it hangs down. Hold the float spring under tension until the carburetor body will support the slight spring tension.
NOTE: THE SPRING ENDS MUST POINT TOWARD THE CARBURETOR CHOKE END.
Position the choke shaft and shutter in the closed position prior to tightening the screws. Hard starting may be due to insufficient choking action because of a misaligned choke plate. Correct by readjusting choke plate to close completely.
A typical choke shutter found on horizontal engines is shown in the figure below. The full choke position of choke lever is counterclockwise when viewed from top of the carburetor. Note cut-out position of choke shutter.
Prior to removing the fuel bowl nut, remove the high speed adjustment needle. Use a 7/16'’ box end wrench or socket to remove the fuel bowl nut. When replacing the fuel bowl nut be sure to position the fiber gasket under the nut and tighten securely.
Examine the tip of the high speed needle, if it appears as illustrated, replace. If the tip of the high speed adjustment needle is damaged, the seat is probably damaged. The seat is part of the main nozzle. When replacing the high speed needle the main nozzle should also be replaced.
Use new gaskets when rebuilding the carburetor. If the fuel bowl to carburetor body gasket does not seat, enlarge by stretching with 4 or 5 quick short strokes. Fiber gasket must be used between center of fuel bowl and carburetor body.
The fuel pick up passage must be clean to assure adequate fuel flow from the fuel bowl to the metering systems.
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Instructions as listed in the "Tecumseh Technicians Handbook" part# 691462A
The manual used for the below info came from Tecumseh's repair manual. You can order a copy of this manual directly from Tecumseh. CLICK HERE to be directed to Tecumseh's website.
Covers HH80 to HH120 horizontal shaft engines
To position the governor gear assembly, insert the shaft opposite the flyweights into the cylinder block.
Position the governor gear assembly (with washer under governor gear) to mesh with the camshaft gear. Place the governor spool (with washer under the spool) on the governor gear assembly, with the fingers of the flyweights under the rim of the spool.
There is an oil groove on the inside of the spool to prevent oil pressure from building up under the spool. Position the governor gear and flyweight assembly on the governor gear shaft. Secure with a retaining ring. Place the governor spool on the governor gear shaft.
The spool is positioned on the governor gear shaft with the fingers of the flyweight under the rim of the spool.
Some models have an oil hole in the closed end for lubrication. CAUTION: On reassembly make sure hole is open. Other models have a groove on the inside that serves the same purpose.
...............................................................................................
Remove the governor gear shaft by threading the shaft with 1/4-28 die. Place a number of washers on the shaft and turn on a nut. By tightening the nut against the washers the shaft will be pulled from the cylinder.
For old style governor assembly, position the governor gear shaft over the opening in the cylinder block and tap lightly with a hammer to start. Use a press to position. Refer to top picture for proper pressed in depth. Measure from the top of the governor gear shaft to the machined surface on the cylinder block.
The governor rod is retained in the cylinder cover bushing with a retaining ring.
The governor spool moves the governor rod by contacting the lever. Outward movement of the governor spool moves the governor levers and carburetor throttle to a closed position.
The lever must contact the governor spool tightly for best governor control and for correct adjustment procedure.
The governor rod on some valve-in-head model engines utilize needle bearings. If bearing(s) are removed, always install new bearing(s). Remove with 3/8'’ (9.525 mm) diameter punch and mallet. To install, tap the first bearing in until the bearing end is flush with casting. Holding a finger over hole will indicate when bearing is driven into casting far enough. Drive the outside bearing in with edge flush with outside surface of casting and seal (in bearing) at outside end.
GOVERNOR ADJUSTMENT FOR HORIZONTAL ENGINES (See Picture: Governor Adjustment for Horizontal Engines)
Move remote controls to RUN position.
Loosen Screw “A”.
Pivot plate “B” counterclockwise (ccw) and hold.
Move lever “C” to left.
Tighten screw “A” securely.
When the governor is properly set, the carburetor throttle lever will be in a wide open position when the controls are set for starting.
The governor spring is to be anchored in the bottom center hole (D) of plate “B”. Do not stretch or cut the governor spring. Above adjustments will correct any variations in governor control.
SETTING VARIABLE SPEED ADJUSTING SCREW. Before attaching the bowden wire, set the engine for maximum R.P.M. (See Mfg. specifications) with engine running. Use a good tachometer. Move lever “A” clockwise until lower end strikes the adjusting screw at “1”. (See picture below)
Loosen lock nut on adjusting screw and turn in to decrease R.P.M. Turn out to increase R.P.M.
CAUTION: DO NOT EXCEED RECOMMENDED R.P.M.
ADJUSTING FIXED SPEED. The fixed speed adjusting screw is the optional position “2”. Adjust it by starting the engine, then loosening the locknut. Turn screw in to increase R.P.M. and out to decrease R.P.M.
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Submitted by Greg Hanna:
Before I started on my Custom 10XL last winter, I tried to find the correct code for the red on my tractor. After talking to my paint guy, I decided that for the Red, Dupont 674A was as close to the original as possible. As for the white I went with Dupont 817A. These codes are for acrylic enamel (Centari) but can be mixed for base coat-clear coat as well (Chromabase). I remember when the tractor was new in 1968 and I feel the color scheme is perfect in my opinion. Nobody has questioned that the color is not correct. For someone who is working on a Custom with the red/white color scheme, I feel they will be VERY HAPPY with this info.
Submitted by Jody Prather:
I have a 1968 SS12 with the Teal & White color scheme. When I restored my tractor, I took a piece of it to my local automotive paint store and had them color analyze it. They had a machine they could use to tell exactly match the color. They then mixed some custom paint to match my colors accurately. Here are the codes they came up with:
For the Teal Color:
Brand Omni AU
Tinting Guide: MBC12745*** A
M120 = 11.2
M121 = 52.5
M128 = 43.6
M118 = 100.9
M135 = 287.2
M150 = 495.6
For the White:
Brand Omni AU Tinting Guide: MBC91445*** A
The colors turned out beautifully and I think they are a direct match to the original Teal and White used in '68.
Submitted by Jim in Canada:
Jim restored a 917.25961 tractor which had the Aztec gold with Bamboo tan combination. For the gold color Jim found that 1976 Chrysler Golden Harvest Gold matched up perfectly. He supplied the paint blend used to mix the paint he used.
Young's Auto Pro (local supplier)
Paint Manufacturer = 2nd dimension
Spec 5A5-7476-oc(A) Harvest Gold RO # T6787
Code Y3 (1976-1977) Chrysler
DA609 Polycure = B 39.4
DM528 Ferrit Yellow = 360.1
DM531 Bright Yellow = 108.0
DM500 Strong Black = 17.0
DM522 Strong White = 14.4
DM614 SOA = 349.7
Dm Balance Solvent = 66.7
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Manuals on this site There are a few manuals you can download for free located on this site. Do you have a manual you would like to share? If so, CLICK HERE and send an email. I'll reply back to you with instructions on how to contribute.
www.ebay.com is a great place to look for a manual for your tractor. Just type in "Sears Tractor Manual" to search all manuals for Sears Tractors, or for a more specific search type in your exact model number into the search box. It's amazing how many manuals you can find on ebay!
sears.pammar.net is another site that has lots of manuals. Mark offers many manuals that can be purchased and received as a PDF file that you can print out on your home printer.
Bill Baker also has a lot of manuals listed on his site that can be purchased and received for the price of printing and shipping.
Perry Jessup has several hundred Sears tractor and attachment manuals (quality copies) ranging from 1959 to 1979. Available as good quality printed copies at a very reasonable price.
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www.searspartsdirect.com Surprisingly, there are many parts that can still be purchased directly from Sears. Sears has a great website where you can search to see if the part you are looking for is still available. Once on their site, simply type in your model number and start searching
www.ebay.com is where many obsolete parts are found for Vintage Sears Tractors. Everything from Carburetors to Mufflers, to Engines to cigarette lighters, are listed at any given time. If you keep watching for the part you're looking for, someone will list one.
Joes Outdoor Power has lots of older Sears Tractor Parts. He has a store on ebay where you can search for parts he is currently selling on ebay.
Ethan Lingenfelter and a friend have quite a collection of old Suburbans and Customs for parts. Click on the link to send and email to Ethan with your part inquiry.
McMaster-Carr This company offers the material used in the brake bands. Click on the link and type in "Brake Lining" in the Find Products text box.
NAPA Your local NAPA store can be a great source for mechanical parts for your tractor. Click on the link to be directed to NAPA's website where you find a place to type in your zip code. NAPA's website will provide you with info on a store that is close to you.
Overnight-Solutions.com Dale from Overnight-Solutions offers a replacement solution for a failed electronic ignition module.
Bert, near Vancouver Canada, is a tractor mechanic who has lots of Sears tractors he is parting out. Member James Colver claims Bert is very reasonable on his prices and has many tractors and implements he is looking to sell. Bert can be reached at (604) 576-8864
Do you know of more places where parts are available? If so please CLICK HERE send me a note with the link or phone number to the place you would like to see added.
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Use the from below to search the SearsTractor.com database to see if the Year of your Tractor is known. Not all Model numbers are listed in the database. If your model number is not in the database and you know the correct year, CLICK HERE to contact the webmaster to have it added.
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There are a couple of examples of wiring diagrams located on this website that may give you the info you are looking for. CLICK HERE to see the available wiring diagram examples.
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All the known belt sizes can be found in the Interchange provided on this site. Not all tractors are listed in the interchange section. If you don't find your tractor listed in the model number drop down list then I do not know what the Belt size is for your tractor.
To see if the belt size for your tractor is available, click on the "Select Model Number" button listed below. You can then choose the belt you are looking for from the list of available parts displayed. The dimensions of the belt will be listed in the Part Description.
[Top]Submitted by Shawn W.
If your tractor originally came with a gauge on it's gas cap, there are several ways to repair it. Mine was missing the cork piece and I simply took one from another gauge that a push mower gas tank had, bent the side wires as well as the center twisted one and slid it on. I then bent everything back into place and checked to see if it worked properly. You have to be careful because the cork can crack easily if forced, take your time. Now that the gauge worked I had to replace the lens, which had turned brown from age and wasn't readable. I removed the old one and took the time to repaint the red on the needle. I took some thin clear plastic, the same thickness as a soda bottle (I used a clear plastic lid) and cut it to size. It helps to cut it larger at first so you can trim it. A utility knife or tin snips work well. I used some flexible clear adhesive to glue it into place and now I have a working gauge!
[Top]How do I prep my tractor for winter storage?
Regardless if you use or store your tractor for the winter consider doing these things: Dirt and condensation are two large enemy's to your tractor. It's always best to start off by cleaning that lawn tractor or mower. Remove any surface grunge with a hose, then get underneath and scrape out any matted grass or cuttings with a paint scraper and screwdriver. Next, clean the exterior with soapy water or a quality cleaner. Clean or replace the air filter, belts, engine oil, and grease any fittings that need attention.
If you store your tractor for the winter: As far as the fuel tank goes there are a couple are a couple of options.
Option 1: Drain the fuel tank and carburetor completely of gas. I personally don't use this method but I'm sure it would work just fine. I usually go for the simpler, quicker method listed in option 2.
Option 2: Fill the tank completely with gas treated with a fuel stabilizer like Stabil. I'm not endorsing Stabil but I have used it and every spring all of my motorized equipment starts right up. There are other fuel stabilizers on the market so the key is to simply use one.
I also think it's also a good idea to remove the spark plug and put just a few drops of motor oil down the spark plug hole. Rotate the engine a couple of revolutions to help coat the cylinder walls with oil, then replace the spark plug. This will dramatically reduce the chance of rust forming on the cylinder wall(s). Finally, and most important, don't forget to change the engine oil.
Remove the wheels and store your tractor off the ground on blocks if possible, preventing any air filled tires from going square. Finishing off, protect the tractor or mower with a covering that breathes. Something like a painter's drop sheet or heavy burlap is good. This allows any condensation to evaporate naturally, minimizing the possibility of rust. And always try to store your equipment in a clean and dry place.
Here are some winterizing tips from member Larry C., a Sears tractor mechanic since 1968:
The easy way to get ready for winter. fill the fuel tank with fresh gas and stabilizer. Clean the tractor up ready for spring. Change oil, plug, air filter if you want. Run the engine 1/2 to 3/4 throttle for 20-30 minutes about once a month. This exercises the engine, dries any moisture, charges the battery, and draws fresher fuel into the carb. Doing this will keep it in tune and ready for spring. I've been doing this for years and get 8 to 10 years out of a battery. Use 2-3 oz of Seafoam in spring, tune up in a can
If you use your tractor during the winter: You're probably going to be getting that snow blower or push blade ready for use, so the same basic rules apply. Give them a good cleaning. Check for debris stuck in the blades. Lubricate any fittings. If you use snow chains you should go ahead and install them.
Conclusion: Whether you store or use your tractor during the winter months, performing some of the simple maintenance tips listed above can save you much grief when springtime rolls around and you bring your tractor out of it's winter hibernation. I hope you find these tips useful.
Jody (SearsTractor.com)
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What type of Oil should I use in my Transaxle?
Check your manual! This info is provided as a suggestion only. It is not intended to replace any info in your owners manual. If you don't have a manual and you are not sure that your transaxle is the same type as listed below, call your local Sears repair center for advice.
Manual Transaxle: 3 forward gears plus reverse with hi-lo range; 5 Quarts SAE 30 motor oil; The oil can be filled by unbolting the shifter and pouring the oil in through the shifter opening.
Hydroshift Transaxle: There is no shifting this type of transaxle. Automatic type transaxle; SAE 20/50 ATF type F transmission fluid
It has been suggested that the transaxle oil be changed after 500 hours of operation.
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How do I remove a frozen steering wheel?
Member Mike Talley was kind enough to supply a user on the bulletin board a detailed pictorial instruction guide to the question: How do I remove a frozen steering wheel?
Thanks Mike for submitting a solution to a frequent problem restorers encounter, and also for graciously allowing this to be a part of the frequently asked questions section!
Mikes instructions:
The puller. This is also great for removing the PTO pulley.
Click image to enlarge
Center punch steering shaft and drill an indentation into it.
Click image to enlarge
This process took me a week. I sprayed the shaft with penetrating oil and pounded it with a heavy hammer daily. After spraying and pounding, I would increase the pressure on the puller.
It also helps to locate the key and hit that using a hammer and punch.
Click image to enlarge
Just be patient. It will come off.
Click image to enlarge
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How do I repair my rusty fuel tank?
Member Stephen Gmeiner pointed us to a product that he used to line his '71 Suburban tractor.
Quote from Stephen: "Do a search for KREEM on ebay. $17 for a quart. Works Great! The bottom of the 1971 Sub12 rusted out too. This stuff fills pin hole leaks and coats the inside of the tank..."
CLICK HERE for a link to the manufacturers website.
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